Xronia Polla on this very special day in the Greek Orthodox Church
The incense hits my nostrils as soon as I enter the church. We're at the back, listening to the chanting. The candle-style light bulbs in the chandeliers overhead give the interior of this church an ethereal glow. The air conditioning's on and it's much cooler in here than it is outside in the plateia . Just before nine, big blotches of rain turn into a downpour. The people who, seconds ago were sitting on the kafenion tables around the plateia , huddle inside and under the awning. And then the rain stops, the bells clang and the parade through the village begins. Up to the next church we go, in one door and out the other side, and then up to the top church and the cemetery. Votive candles glow in the churchyard and people peel off from the parade to pay their respects to family buried in ornate graves. And the parade returns, past busy tavernas and open-mouthed tourists who can't believe their luck in coming across such an interesting tradition. We sit outs...