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Celebrating St Spyridon's Day in Corfu

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Outside the Church of St Spyridon, it is standing room only. The devoted and curious push their way in to see and hear and smell the splendour of the service in the golden, candelit interior. Nearly all the shops and businesses are closed as islanders mark St Spyridon's Day, when Corfu's patron sain t is celebrated and Spiros and Spirodoulas across Greece enjoy name-day parties and buy drinks for all their friends. It is a special day too for the small gift shops next to the church where the saint's relics are kept in a highly decorated casket. They are busy selling candles and icons and worry beads. Stalls nearby, manned by minor holy men, receive a steady trickle of customers while the doughnuts stands do a roaring trade. At the main entrance to the church, a beautiful beggar woman and her two children are handed bread torn off from rolls given to the congregation. The children gorge on plastic cups filled with pine nuts, sultanas, walnuts, sesame s...