The Onassis hideaway in the heart of the Ionian
It’s Mr Grigg’s birthday and we’re on a quay at Nidri, Lefkada, while an engineer fixes the alternator on our boat, Nestor. I can think of worse places to be. An imposing figure towers large on the quayside, just outside Nik the Greek’s, his jacket hung nonchalantly over his shoulder. Through his big glasses he sees everything. He gazes out to the small island of Skorpios. He runs his eyes along the ridge to the flat-topped bit on the left, his helipad. Skorpios looking towards Nidri and Lefkada It is not Mr Grigg who is looming over Nidri like some benign giant. It is the statue of Aristotle Onassis, the man who it is said never spent the night on his island but preferred to sleep aboard the yacht Christina anchored by the seashore in the clear waters of the Ionian. These days he is buried here, along with his son, Alexander, and daughter, Christina. This was the shipping magnate loved by the local population and the man who brought Jackie Kenn...